Čtvrtek 28. března 2024, svátek má Soňa
130 let

Lidovky.cz

U Emy Destinnové hits the high notes

  9:22

Stylish yet cozy, the restaurant located in the birthplace of a Czech opera diva sings out with fresh international culinary hits

U Emy Destinnové has a reputation for using fresh ingredients of the highest quality foto: restaurant U Emmy DestinovéČeská pozice

Since the month-long Grand Restaurant Festival began Jan. 15, U Emy Destinnové — which is participating for the first time — has ranked as one of the event’s most popular eateries and has more than held its own among establishments with better locations and weightier reputations.

Veteran diners in Prague may remember its predecessor, the old JB Club, a cozy, out-of-the-way eatery that was very popular in the mid-to-late 1990s before sliding off the radar somewhat as an increasing number of upscale establishments opened closer to the city center.

In recent years, the space has been under new management and the current regime has gradually carved out a niche for itself, building up a loyal clientele who don’t mind stepping a little off the beaten track for some fine fare.

Named after the famous Czech opera singer Ema Destinnová — sometimes known in English as as Emmy Destinn — who was born in the same building, U Emy Destinnové retains the intimate atmosphere of the previous establishment while adding some sleek embellishments. The open fire and informal lounge area with comfortable sofas remain, but all the furniture has been newly upholstered and the appointments upgraded in line with 21st century sensibilities.

The man in charge of the food is American chef Steven Trumpfheller who learned his trade in a variety of establishments “ranging from mom-and-pop restaurants to upscale French-style bistros and other fine dining establishments in New York, Philadelphia, Atlanta, and Miami.”

After moving to Prague with his Czech wife, Trumpfheller cut his teeth in the local restaurant trade for around nine months at  L’Angelo, run by the Kogo chain, before branching out with Czech partner Jiří Pešek to set up his own business.

Like many top chefs, Trumpfheller’s culinary credo is a simple one. “It’s basically a fusion of old-style French and Italian techniques done in a new way, with just a hint of Asia in the background,” he says, while emphasizing that his work is not just about producing the standard international fare that passes for fusion cuisine in many Prague eateries. “It’s about bringing different cooking techniques together to make a specific kind of dish.”

Besides the detailed attention to technique, U Emy Destinnové also prides itself on obtaining the highest quality fresh ingredients. Unfortunately, this approach to culinary raw materials is still not the norm in Prague, and Trumpfheller had several forthright discussions with recalcitrant purveyors before they eventually began supplying him with produce that matched his exacting standards. (As the partnership’s designated Czech speaker, Pešek recalls often having to give suppliers “a censored version” of Trumpfheller’s opinion of their wares). ‘It’s basically a fusion of old-style French and Italian techniques done in a new way, with just a hint of Asia in the background.’

Although it took a while to iron out these initial supply complications, Trumpfheller believes it was worth making the effort so that he could put food on the table that conformed to his “fresh is best” policy. “Everything here is made-to-order,” he says. “There is nothing marinated or pre-sliced; all the food is as fresh as it could possibly be.”

Racking it up

This insistence on using only the best ingredients available was very much in evidence on the night I dined there with my partner. After being seated at an intimate table for two in the back room, our waiter made sure to offer us a number of specials that Trumpfheller could make for us if nothing else on the menu caught our fancy.

I was sold on the idea of an “off-menu” rack of lamb with mashed potatoes preceded by roasted-eggplant soup, while my partner opted for a giant shrimp starter served on garlic crostoni, followed by the regular salmon steak with honey, horseradish and Dijon sauce.

The entrées arrived promptly, and like all good curtain raisers, they whetted the appetite and left us wanting more without threatening to overshadow the main event.

U Emy Destinnové
Kateřinská 7, Prague 2
Mon–Fri 11:30 am – 11.30 pm
Sat 6 pm – 11.30 pm (Closed Sundays)
Live piano music Wed and Thurs from 7 pm
Tel.: +420 224 918 425
www.jbclub.cz

My soup had just enough eggplant to add a delicate smoky flavor to its robust tomato base, and it was quickly dispatched with undue haste. I even went so far as to mop up the leavings with one of the kitchen’s freshly warmed, homemade rolls.

My partner’s giant shrimp took a little longer to negotiate as it truly was a monster, but it too was rapidly demolished along with the crostoni, whose subtle herb flavorings were a pleasant surprise.

Enjoyable as these appetizers were, they paled in comparison with the main courses. “Succulent” is  almost too easy a cliché to use when talking about a nice cut of meat, but no other word would suffice to describe the genuinely tender lamb I received, cooked to perfection and served on a wonderfully rich demi-glace (which was also mopped up by another of those delicious rolls).

The surprisingly fresh salmon on the other side of the table was rapidly demolished as well, along with a perfect complement of crisp, grilled asparagus in citrus butter.

I had no room for dessert, but my dining partner had been told about U Emy Destinnové’s Philadelphia cheesecake and insisted on giving it a try. It’s not often a dish can match its reputation, but this delicious concoction, served with fresh berries and a little drizzle of chocolate sauce, certainly lived up to its billing.

Naturally, one can always find flaws, if one looks hard enough. The main courses deserved to be served on warmer plates, and my partner thought that the natural flavors of her fresh salmon were a tad overwhelmed by the honey in the sauce, but such nitpicking quibbles are only really warranted because U Emy Destinnové sets the bar so high.

With charming service, a stylish but comfortable interior, and thoughtful, well-cooked food, there is no doubt that people who have sampled the fare during the ongoing Grand Restaurant Festival will come back to this restaurant for more of the same.

Surprisingly, for such an unpretentious establishment, it is obvious that the wine list has been compiled as carefully as the menu. Besides a fine range of French, Italian and New World wines, Mikulov native Jiří Pešek has also selected some of his favorite South Moravian beverages for those who might like to try some excellent local vintages.

With three courses without wine coming to around Kč 700–800 per head, U Emy Destinnové is a little pricier than many other establishments in the surrounding area. Nonetheless, there should be no shortage of people willing to take a five to 10 minute walk from I. P. Pavlova metro station to pay a little extra for food this good. Price-conscious diners can also avail of a daily lunch menu of vegetarian, fish and meat specials for around Kč 180–240.

Cóilín O’Connor is a Prague-based freelance writer

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2. týden: Vyhrajte dobroty pro batolata v hodnotě 3 466 Kč
2. týden: Vyhrajte dobroty pro batolata v hodnotě 3 466 Kč

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