The synonym of Japanese cuisine in the Czech Republic, like elsewhere in the world, has come to be sushi: hand-prepared pieces of boiled rice covered by pieces of raw fish or other ingredients. But how can you tell genuine sushi apart from a mere imitation?
Sushi embodies the Japanese desire for aesthetic perfection; every piece has to be a feast for the eye. In addition, its taste should be refined, unobtrusive and exquisite. The key thing, of course, is the quality of the raw fish used, but there is more to it. The rice is seasoned with Japanese rice vinegar and must be boiled until it reaches a tender consistency, unsalted and agreeably sticky. In Japan, the cook usually prepares sushi right in front of you. The soy sauce and wasabi horseradish should only lightly touch the fish.
To go with the clumps of sushi rice you have raw tuna, salmon, sardines, mackerel and other kinds of sea fish. The pieces of fish must be sliced accurately to the millimeter and sufficiently thick. The body of rice should be entirely covered by fish.
It’s best to start with sashimi, pieces of fish without rice. The Japanese most appreciate freshwater eels or sea eel (unagi or anago) and they most enjoy the fatty parts of fish (toro, the belly). In Prague, the best places serving quality sushi are Miyabi on Navrátilova street, Mash Hana at on Badeniho street in Hradčany, Sushi Bar on Zborovská street and Samurai on Londýnská street.
You will appreciate the stylish interior design in Miyabi and Samurai — you can sit down on rice straw tatami mats in separated spaces and your dinner will be an authentic experience. The Japanese traditionally feast at a common table, covered with many treats in little plates and bowls. You put whatever you want on your plate, and everyone refills each other’s glasses.
Little sushi bars where masterful cooks prepare the food right in front of your eyes are traditional as well. The best place to go in Prague to have this experience is in Sushi Bar. Although it’s managed by two Czechs, even Japanese praise it.
The experienced chef Toshiharu Miyazaki, who used to cook for the Japanese ambassador to the Czech Republic for years, holds sway over the Mash Hana restaurant. Mash Hana’s menu probably most resembles Japan’s favorite family treats. Apart from that, Miyazaki adds his own creations, for example stamina yaki, nutritious beef slices.
How to choose in a kaiten-zushi
Prague, Brno and other cities have seen the opening of many so-called kaiten-zushi places, where the plates with various dishes of sushi literally move among the guests on conveyor belts. In Japan these are ordinary family restaurants where you order using a touchscreen display at the table and pay per arrived plate. Don’t allow yourself to be overwhelmed by the technology too much. The rule of thumb both in the Czech Republic and Japan is that there is an inverse correlation between the quality of food served and the eye-catching technological spectacle provided.
Apart from superb ingredients a chef’s experience is crucial in preparing quality sushi. So it’s not a good idea to go for “all you can eat” buffet offers, or a set menu. It’s smarter to pick from an a la carte menu. In the Czech Republic, be prepared to part with about Kč400 to get stuffed in an average kaiten-zushi. If you want to make the most out of the pay-per-plate system, pick portions with the highest proportion of raw fish and don’t be fooled by American-style vegetable modifications. But do make an exception for tamago egg omelette, which isn’t easy to make or serve. Japanese writer Junichiro Tanizaki claims that you can tell a good sushi bar by the quality of its tamago.
